If I Had a Million Dollars....

If you had $5,000 to start a wine cellar, what would you buy?

This may seem like a pie in the sky question – much like the oft asked “what would you do if you won the lottery?” But readers thinking of starting a cellar frequently seek my suggestions on what wines they should stock.

Personally, I’ve never had the good fortune to have five grand in my jeans to spend on a wine shopping spree. But I know of people who have made such deliberate investments in a quest to build a cellar from scratch. One such individual was Robin Mines, a fellow wine critic from Vancouver, who more than an decade ago sunk that amount in a wine collection in a concerted effort to become serious about the subject and educate her palate.

That might seem like a lot of cash to, well, liquidate, but at today’s prices you might be surprised at how stark your racks still look when the money’s spent. A 750 ml bottle of decent Bordeaux will set you back easily $200 – $600-plus is not unheard of – while Italian Barolos range $50-$100.

Do the math. If you spend an average of $30-$50 a bottle – which is modest when you factor in the big guns – you’ll only end up with 100-166 wines. Thus I don’t recommend you simply grab a shopping cart at the local liquor store and fill it willy-nilly, as tempting as that may be.

It would be prudent first to do a little soul searching and researching. First, think about the main purpose you want your cellar to serve. Do you want to buy wines as a investment? Are you planning to age them for extended periods? Or do you simply want a stash of everyday drinkers so you don’t have to make frequent trips to the liquor store?

One blogger on the Wine Spectator online discussion forum asked for wine buying suggestions for long-term cellaring with an eye to spending upwards of $2,500. After fielding recommendations in favour of first-growth Bordeaux and chewy Chateauneuf du Papes, the poster declared that he was not prepared to pay more than $50 for a bottle and that he preferred sweet wines to “leathery, magic marker, tobacco, or nasty flavors.”

A fellow forum member suggested he hadn’t done his homework. “Your description of what kind of wine you like seems at odds with the point of long-term cellaring. Most people buy long-aging wines for cellaring purposes in order to eventually obtain complex and nuanced wines, often with leather, tobacco, earth, graphite, and other such flavors. If you like ripe, lush, fruit-forward wines (and that's perfectly fine if that's what you prefer), there is neither much need nor desirability to cellar wines. For the most part, you're best off buying wines like that within the year or two of when you intend to open them.”

Indeed, not all wine improves with age, a myth I’ve been trying to bust for years.

If this is your first cellar and you are what can be described as a fledgling aficionado then an “all-purpose” collection is your best approach. Suppose your initial target is 100 bottles – then a good breakdown would be 50 red, 30 white and 20 being a mixed lot of rosés, sparklers and other specialty wines (desserts, sherries, ports, maderias etc..). Within this collection, one quarter should be everyday quaffing wines of low to moderate value, another quarter should be ready-to-drink wines of higher quality and value and one half should be a mixed bag of assorted value wines of various age-ability.

On the Wine Spectator forum, one man offered this very sage advice: “Spend your money gradually by buying a wide range of wines from different regions, different grapes, in different styles. Most of your buying at first should be good value wines in the $10-30 range, most of which should be capable of being opened and enjoyed young. Don't try to skip ahead into buying expensive wines and/or wines which you'll need to hold for many years before opening, or you'll end up spending your money on a small number of bottles to stare at for years instead of on trying lots of good wines and learning what you like and don't like (and keeping in mind that what you like and don't like will change significantly over the years).”

If you don’t know what you are doing, don’t leap into the wine-as-an-investment gig or you may end up with substantial losses. It’s a high-stakes game because wine is not only tradable commodity, it’s a perishable food item and most “investment wines” are already outrageously pricey.

When choosing what wines to buy, set goals in the following areas:
* By region, wine category, varietal, color, wine type, quality level and score
* By aging period
* Cost
* Favorite years to target (birth years, anniversaries, etc.)?

Here are some tips on buying wines for your cellar:

Develop a good relationship with one or two local wine retailers and government store product consultants – Besides providing advice and recommendations, if they get to know you they will often contact you when great products come in. Although you will want to pay government store prices wherever possible, some of the rarer, most desirable and unique wines aren’t carried in the provincial liquor stores, thus private retailers are invaluable. A B.C. VQA wine shop is also a good resource and make sure you are on the mailing lists of your favourite local wineries.

Taste before you buy – Learn to trust your own palate and don’t always rely on critic ratings for your wine investments. Be open to experimentation. Don’t just keep buying those tried and true favourites.

Pace your purchases - Your taste preferences will change over time so if you’ve squirreled away a wine nest egg, don't try to spend it all in six months. While you may be tempted to backfill your new cellar with mature vintages and to give it a “full” look you can get hosed. Ideally, you should buy new releases annually and lay them down.

Perform quarterly inventories - While you may scoff at the idea that you might forget a wine, it happens and bottles will sometimes surpass their prime unnoticed and be undrinkable. Also these quarterly check-ups will alert you to areas in which you may be getting low or high – such as having too few white moderately priced drinking wines and too many high end cellar dwellers – so you can adjust your buying habits to suit your consumption rates.

Target cellar size - How much do you consume annually? How much do you entertain? Consider your budget constraints and your current age.

Plan storage requirements - Whether you're installing a home cellar, cave, refrigeration unit, or expect to store your wine at a professional storage facility, figure it out before you invest thousands of dollars in wine. There's no point creating a wine collection if you're can’t store it properly.

Consider insurance - If you amass a collection worth tens of thousands of dollars, the last thing you want is to lose it all in a fire or burglary and not be compensated for it. Many basic homeowners’ policies, however, don’t provide coverage for wine collections of high value so you will want to check with your insurance broker for details of your policy or to acquire additional coverage.

Wine Notes

Noble Ridge Meritage 2004 (0) ***1/2
Heavily weighted on the Merlot with a kick of Cabernet Sauvignon, this two-grape blend has heady aromas of plum, black cherry, vanilla bean with black pepper and savoury notes. Plush on the palate with tangy black fruit flavours, hint of menthol and a slightly hot and peppery finish. $25
Remarks: Still needs a bit of age, but silky texture and loads of dark fruit make it one worthwhile for the cellar
Cellaring Recommendation: Drink now with food, cellar up to four years
Where to Find It: VQA shops or order direct from winery

Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2006 (0) ****
Aromas of baked apple, honey, spice with leesy and oily notes. Flavours of pear, apple, honey, spice and a creamy, fat, sweet, nutty texture in the mouth. Quite yummy. $25
Remarks: One of the bigger, creamier B.C. chards with. Appealing to those who like fat, juicy wines a touch on the sweet side.
Cellaring Recommendation: Drink now to retain maximum freshness
Where to Find It: VQA shops and government liquor stores

Burrowing Owl Syrah 2005 (0) ***1/2
A robust Syrah with aromas of roasted coffee bean, vanilla, black cherry, plum, licorice, sage and a touch of leather, earth and herbaceous notes. Silky, supple on the palate with smoky, black cherry, coffee, vanilla and mocha. Spicy dry finish. $38
Remarks: Has all the chewy, earthy, bold character you want in a Syrah.
Cellaring Recommendation: Drink now to 2011
Where to Find It: Winery wineshop, private retailers, restaurants.

20 Under $20

Arrowleaf 2007 Bacchus $14 (Lake Country)
Peach, rose petals, pink grapefruit and lemon-lime aromas followed by flavours of green apple, lemon rind, grapefruit, spice and mineral. Crisp entry and a clean finish with a lingering acidity, this is the quintessential summer sipper ideal served well chilled on hot days.

Calona 2005 Artist Series Cab Merlot $15 (Kelowna)
A Friday-night quaffer of wine with bright cherry aromas, toasty oak character and hints of cloves and vanilla. Soft and fruit-forward – goes down easy.

CedarCreek 2007 Ehrenfelser $18.10 (Kelowna)
A delightful bouquet of honeysuckle, peach and pink grapefruit that also shines through on the palate. Refreshing sipper with nice racy acidity on the finish. Flavours of fresh peach and grapefruit and just enough residual sugar for balance.

Domaine de Chaberton 2006 Canoe North Bluff Red $13 (Fraser Valley)
Aromas and flavours of black cherries, stewed plums and pepper spice. Medium body, sweet entry and simple finish. A Merlot that is nice for the price, definitely a crowd pleaser and a terrific little barbecue wine.

Ganton and Larson 2006 Ogopogo’s Lair Pinot Grigio $17 (Oliver)
A bouquet filled with tropical fruit, apricot, floral and fresh citrus acidity. Some tree and tropical fruit flavours with fresh acidity on the palate and a racy finish. A delightful everyday sipper.

Gehringer Brothers 2006 Cuvée Noir $13.10 (Oliver)
Baked black cherry, chocolate, smoked meat, black pepper aromas with a medium body texture, soft mid palate and flavours of dark berry, cocoa, spice and a slightly hot alcoholic finish. But it’s priced right for group gulping.

Golden Mile Cellars 2006 Road 13 White $17 (Oliver)
Citrus rind, spicy, mineral, peach and ginger aromas. Crisp, dry entry with viscosity on the palate and a zesty finish. A multi-layered value white for those who crave something different.

Gray Monk 2006 Siegerrebe $16.50 (Lake Country)
Aromas of floral, spice, pink grapefruit, orange, peach. Fresh entry with lovely off-dry acidity and a racy finish. Flavours of peach, honey, grapefruit, orange, spice.
Easy sipper that should be served well chilled.

Hester Creek 2006 Cabernet Merlot $16 (Oliver)
Aromas of cherry, blackberry and pepper and a touch of sweet oak. This is an uncomplicated sipper with ripe cherry, blackberry flavour and soft tannins. A great choice for barbecues and pizza.

Jackson-Triggs 2004 Proprietor’s Reserve Meritage $19.99 (Oliver)
One of the top rated value wines in the country featuring a full bouquet of cassis, violets, chocolate, spice and toasty oak. On the palate is luscious dark fruits, cocoa, spice, toast, vanilla and moderate tannins.

Joie 2007 Rose $18.90 (Naramata)
Lively strawberry extract and bing cherry aromas with some honeysuckle, rose and peach notes. Lively on the entry with loads of fresh strawberry and cherry flavours and a racy clean finish.

Nk’Mip 2005 Merlot $19.99 (Osoyoos)
An earthy Merlot with luscious black fruits, spice, toasty oak notes. On the palate there is considerable weight, good fruit extraction, spice and a bit of a tannic bite on the finish. A winner with a juicy steak. Cellar for future smooth sipping.

Quails’ Gate 2006 Chardonnay $19 (Kelowna)
Honeyed apple, citrus and a touch of toast and butter on the nose. Lovely roundness on the palate with good weight without being overdone. Clean finish with good length. This a quaffable well-balanced Chard at a great price.

Recline Ridge 2006 Kerner $12 (Salmon Arm)
Waxy apple skin, lemon, lime, green peach and floral notes. The entry is crisp and the mid-palate is bright and racy with flavours of citrus, mineral, lemon-lime, apple skin. A superb value worthy of stocking up for ongoing patio/hot tub sipping – can’t go wrong

Red Rooster 2007 Riesling $16 (Naramata)

Pear, mineral, floral, apple, tangerine and lemon aromas followed by flavours of green apple, candied lemon, mineral, grapefruit, lemon zest. Slightly sweet and luscious entry with crisp mid-palate, racy finish.

Sandhill 2006 Pinot Blanc $17 (Kelowna)
Aromas of pineapple, melon, lemon-lime, pear and a touch of spice and oak. Bright acidity on the palate balanced by luscious flavours of tropical fruit, citrus and a clean, racy finish.

Sumac Ridge 2006 Private Reserve Chardonnay $19.95 (Summerland)
One of the few truly buttery wines left in the Okanagan – ideal for those who like that bold style. Features sweet tropical fruit, pear, vanilla, buttered toast and sweet spice.

Therapy 2006 Pink Freud $18 (Naramata)
A lively wine that is also a conversation starter with its name and packaging. This shiraz/merlot/pinot noir blend offers up citrus and berry notes and a hint of spice. Clean, zesty finish.

Thornhaven 2007 Gewurztraminer $17 (Summerland)
Lovely sweet entry with lively acidity on the mid-palate and a fresh, snappy finish. Candied lemony fruit flavours, lychee, grapefruit and rose petal character. They set the bar for Gewurz in the valley.

Tinhorn Creek 2004 Cabernet Franc $18 (Oliver)
Aromas of spice, toasted nuts, blackberry, roasted vegetables and black pepper. Ripe fruit flavours on the palate with toasty oak and roasted nuts plus some dark vanilla and a spicy pepper finish. Good length.

A Wine By Any Other Name....

By Julianna Hayes

You say toe-meh-toe and I say toe-MA-toe.

You say Pinot Grigio and I say Pinot Gris...so?

When it comes to grapes and wine, I get a lot of queries about varieties that are bottled under slightly different names. The two aforementioned are a case in point. And let’s not forget que Syrah, Shiraz.

People are always asking me to explain the difference between them and I’m tempted to reply, “not a darn thing.” But that would be an oversimplification.

Let’s start with the Pinots. The Gris is what the French call the grape, Grigio is the Italian version. In theory, the terms also refer to two different winemaking styles.

In France, particularly the Alsatian region, the wine from this variety is known for being peachy, floral, perfumy and full-flavoured, with some winemakers opting for oak contact making it even more robust. The Italian version is far more austere and often described as being lean, racy, fresh and lemony crisp, largely due to the fact that winemakers there tend to pick the grapes earlier so they aren’t as ripe. Oak use is rare.

As one writer put it: “The theory is that one’s fat and one’s skinny, like a kind of Laurel and Hardy duo of wine.”

Now for the Syrah/Shiraz conundrum. The former is again French, typically grown in the Rhône Valley, while the other is Australian, the name stemming from the belief that the grape's origin is the town of Shiraz in Iran.

Again there are contrasts in the winemaking styles. The French like their Syrahs earthy and spicy, while in Australia – where the grape is a true workhorse – vintners lean toward big, full-bodied, fruity styles.

That all seems basic enough, but where the concepts get truly tricky is when the Pinot Gris/Grigio or Syrah/Shiraz in question is neither French, Italian nor Australian.

Indeed, these two grapes are gaining popularity in wine regions in all corners of the globe, not the least of which is in British Columbia. It likely hasn’t escaped your notice that B.C. vintners haven’t adopted one name for each of the varieties. Indeed, there’s a plethora of locally-produced Gris, Grigio, Syrah and Shiraz on the market. In fact, some wineries even use all four names.

One would think if you picked up a bottle of, say, Okanagan Pinot Gris, you might expect the fat, French version. But that isn’t necessarily the case. In fact, several wineries are producing Pinot Gris that is more like the Italian version. And example of this is the Blasted Church 2006 “Pinot Gris” which exhibits fresh, citrus, mineral and apple skin characteristics – delicious, but not at all like the Alsatian style. Then there’s the 2006 Gris from Red Rooster, which critic Anthony Gismondi described as a “clean fresh citrus flavoured styled gris that tastes more grigio-like this year.”

On the flip side is the 2006 “Pinot Grigio” from Noble Ridge, which can hardly be described as lean and dry. With some oak contact and some residual sugar is has fat, tropical fruit aromas and flavours and quite a lot of leesy character.

You’ll have better luck with Shiraz/Syrah in terms of name equaling style. Syrah actually is the most commonly used term by vintners growing this variety, which has cropped up in droves in recent years. Only a handful wineries have adopted Shiraz on their labels, including, not surprisingly, La Frenz, which is owned and operated by a pair of Aussie transplants, Jeff and Niva Martin. But here’s the kicker, the one made by Jeff Martin, the winemaker, “is not a jammy Australian Shiraz,” says critic John Schreiner. And neither is it French-like. It is instead, according to Schreiner, “one that expresses the cool-climate terroir of the Okanagan’s Naramata Bench.”

The B.C. versions are invariably compared to the “originals” – the Mission Hill 2005 Shiraz was described by Gismondi as “true to its Oz-like styling,” while he pegged its 2004 Syrah as “a more Euro style.” But the sudden success of this variety locally (practically unheard of in the 1990s with only one producer, it is now the fifth most widely planted red grape in B.C.) is owed to its own emerging styles. Schreiner says Okanagan Syrah in general has “classic peppery notes,” and Naramata Bench-grown Syrah in particular is known for its “sensuous elegance.”

B.C.-made Syrah/Shiraz is certainly being judged favourably on its own merits. In the last two years, wines made with this variety took three of the 10 coveted Lieutenant Governor’s Awards of Excellence. And in 2006, the wine world was turned on its ear at the prestigious International Wine and Spirits Competition in London when it was announced that the Rosemount trophy for World’s Best Shiraz was going not to an Australia winery, but to a British Columbia one. Jackson Triggs Okanagan made history by taking home this haughty prize for its 2004 Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Shiraz.

Not bad for a wine critics argued could not be made in B.C.

Wine Notes

95-100 Sets the bar.
90-94 Outstanding, has wow factor.
80-89 Good to very good.
70-79 Average, may have minor flaws.
60-69 Drinkable, but not recommended.
00-59 Undrinkable.

Mission Hill 2004 S.L.C. Syrah
Appearance: Intensely dark cherry red colour with brilliant undertones
Aromas: Black cherry, smoke, pepper, licorice, roasted bell pepper, mocha, leather
Flavours: Black cherry, plum, cocoa, peppery spice, licorice and herbs
Body and Finish: Silky entry on the palate, medium weight, moderately tannic and tight on the finish. Good length
Overall Impression: A spicy but elegant wine that should improve with age.
Would I Buy It? Yes, to cellar
Cellaring Potential: Age 2-8 years
Score: 88/100
Price: $40
Availability: BC LDB, VQA shops, private retailers


La Frenz 2005 Shiraz
Appearance: Deep, black cherry colour
Aromas: Earthy, cherry, plum, pepper, a bit of smoke and meatyness
Flavours: Spicy, plum, blueberries, cherries, sweet oak
Body and Finish: Elegant and silky texture, medium weight, supple tannins and elongated finish
Overall Impression: Beautifully executed wine that is both delicious and good value.
Would I Buy It? Yes
Cellaring Potential: Age 2-6 years
Score: 91/100
Price: $29
Availability: Sold out. Future vintages direct from winery.


Blasted Church 2006 Pinot Gris
Appearance: Crystal pale straw colour with a slightly green tinge
Aromas: Citrus, green apple skin, mineral, touch of peach, lemon
Flavours: Fresh apple, peach, lemon, citrus rind, mineral
Body and Finish: Clean, fresh entry, medium to light body, citrusy finish. Good length
Overall Impression: A racy, clean fruit forward effort. Nicely refreshing.
Would I Buy It? Yes, to sip on the patio or match with simple summer salads and white fish
Cellaring Potential: Drink now
Score: 87/100
Price: $20
Availability: VQA shops, private retailers

The ABC Conundrum

By Julianna Hayes

It amazes me when consumers are driven to buy or snub a particular product based on the preferences or whims of a fictional character.

Wine enthusiasts swooned over Pinot Noir when cynical imbiber Miles sang its praises in the wine-soaked black comedy Sideways. Meanwhile, the movie had the opposite effect on another varietal in an infamous scene outside a restaurant when Miles declared, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any @#$%& Merlot!” That led to a significant cooling in the marketplace toward that wine.

Hollywood’s vinous tentacles were far reaching, even affecting local sales of these products. The interest in B.C. produced Pinot Noir was piqued and local makers who have focused on this challenging variety were finally rewarded for their efforts.

Fortunately, the insatiable thirst for B.C. wine in general balanced out the negative press for Merlot, which is the most planted grape in the province. But elsewhere in the world, sales of the wine truly suffered.

Now it seems Hollywood has done it again and this time the victim is Chardonnay.

Renowned British wine writer Oz Clarke sounded the alarm last week following the release of statistics demonstrating slumping sales of the white wine. He blamed it on the “Bridget Jones effect.”

“Chardonnay has made some of the world’s greatest wines. Everyone appreciated it – until Bridget Jones,” said Clarke.

After yet another dismal attempt at finding love, the hapless heroine goes back to her “miserable bedsit,” said Clarke, and writes in her diary, “I’ve failed again, I’ve poured an enormous glass of Chardonnay and I’m going to put my head in the oven.”

“Until Bridget Jones, Chardonnay was really sexy,” said Clarke. “After, people said, ‘God, not in my bar.’”

Personally, I think Clarke is seriously behind the times. Bridget Jones was a phenomenon for about a decade, appearing first as the lead character in Helen Fieldings’ books, then as a weekly column in the UK newspaper, The Independent, and finally as two blockbuster Hollywood flicks, Bridget Jones’ Diary, and, Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason. But her run ended in 2005. Surely it couldn’t have taken this long to have an impact. The influence of Sideways, released in 2004, was almost immediate.

Seems I’m not the only one who thinks so. British wine expert Christopher Piper attributed the most recent sales slump to the tail end of the “ABC” – Anything But Chardonnay – backlash, a consumer boycott of all the over-oaked and unremarkable Chards in the marketplace.

He said consumers are now starting to come around and that the white wine is no longer uncool to drink. I agree.

On the local front, Chardonnay is the second most planted grape in the province, ironically. And while I have heard the ABC term bandied about, for the most part it has come from individuals who never embraced Chardonnay in the first place.

Like Merlot, there is a disproportionate amount of mediocre Chardonnay in the marketplace. The bulk and lower-end versions tend to flabby, flat and cloying without the cleansing acidity needed to give this fruit-bomb of a variety its balance. Adding to the problem has been the heavy-handed use of oak, resulting in wines that were little more than a mouthful of sweet butter.

Being touted as the “red wine lover’s white” didn’t help matters either. After all, if you prefer red, why bother with a white wanna-be?

But there are a lot of reasons to love Chardonnay. It’s tremendously versatile with its wide range of styles. It is the one white grape that winemakers can truly sink their teeth into, as it can be taken in various directions in the cellar.

There are the unoaked, crisp, lean, mineral versions in the style of world-famous Chablis. There are the unoaked, super ripe, perfumey, tropical fruit-forward wines common in New World regions. There are the understated oaked and refined versions in the Burgundian style. There are the super oaked, buttery and full-bodied wines attributed to Australia, California and Chile. And there are the sparkling versions in the style of Champagne.

In British Columbia, you can find examples of all five distinct styles and many more in between. Thus somebody who claims to not like Chardonnay has clearly not explored the options available.

All appeal to me in someway or another, whether it be for pairing with certain foods or for sipping on their own poolside or fireside. But my preferences lean toward the understated oak variety – wines that have complexity and age-ability with toasty, buttery qualities, ripe fruit and acidity all in perfect harmony.

At virtually every mass tasting I attend, one of the goals I set is to find one or two stellar Chardonnays to add to my drinking repertoire. I am rarely disappointed.

Taste Test

95-100 Sets the bar.
90-94 Outstanding, has wow factor.
80-89 Good to very good.
70-79 Average, may have minor flaws.
60-69 Drinkable, but not recommended.
00-59 Undrinkable.

Mission Hill 2006 S.L.C. Chardonnay

Appearance: Brilliant golden colour, fat legs
Aromas: Apricot preserves, pear, green apple skin, orange, golden apple, hazelnut, butter, some floral notes
Flavours: Apricot, orange peel, apple skin, nuts, butter, lemon oil.

Body and Finish: Well balanced on the palate with roundness and acidity, clean, extended finish.

Overall Impression: Rich, delicious but not over the top, this winemaker knows his way around Chardonnay.

Cellaring Potential: Drink now and through 2010

Would I Buy It?: Yes, for special occasions or for a treat

Score: 89
Price: $29.99

Availability: BC LDBs, VQA shops, private retailers

Jackson-Triggs 2006 Sunrock Chardonnay

Appearance: Luminous gold colour

Aromas: Baked apple, pineapple, hazelnut, honey, lemon, lees, butter, vanilla

Flavours: Baked yellow tree fruits, bright tropical fruit, nectarine, lemon oil, vanilla.

Body and Finish: Ripe, round and sweet entry, oily palate with some citrus on the finish for balance.

Overall Impression: Ideal for those who like a rich Chardonnay without a lot of acid.

Cellaring Potential: Drink now to retain its freshness

Would I Buy It?: Once or twice

Score: 87

Price: $25.99

Availability: BC LDBs, VQA shops, private retailers

Red Rooster 2007 Reserve Chardonnay

Appearance: Lustrous pale gold colour

Aromas: Vanilla, lemon, clove, pineapple, baked yellow fruit, faint toast and butter

Flavours: Golden apple, tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla, lemon.

Body and Finish: Ripe entry, medium body on the palate, refreshing finished with good length

Overall Impression: A well-balanced fruit-forward version that is highly quaffable

Cellaring Potential: Best young and fresh

Would I Buy It?: Occasionally

Score: 88

Price: $21.99

Availability: BC LDBs, VQA shops, private retailers

Wine Q&A: Cleaning Stemware

Q: How do you care for Riedel stemware? I bought eight glasses a month ago and have already broken two. On both, the stems snapped off while I was hand drying them. This is frustrating because they were expensive. But I love the look and feel of Riedels.
- Suzanne

A: I feel your pain. Several years ago I purchased a set of 10 top-of-the-line Riedels of various shapes and sizes at a time when I didn’t have much money. I justified it by telling myself it was an investment in my livelihood, much like a mechanic must acquire tools for his trade. One of the very first times I used a glass, it slipped out of my hands and began its tragic descent to the slate floor below. It was like watching it in slow motion and I braced myself for the inevitable carnage. But the glass didn’t shatter – it bounced! Upon inspection there was nary a crack or mark on it. But that’s where my luck ran out. Not a single glass from that set survives today.

Riedel glasses are beautiful, classic and their shapes and the thinness of the crystal are what make drinking out of them such a pleasure. Wines just seem to taste better when served in this stemware. But they are terribly fragile and need extra special care – even the lower-end lines. For everyday use, I suggest looking to an alternative brand– ones that have the classic shapes and styles of Riedel, but are sturdier, even dishwasher safe. Glassware retailers have a lot of options.

To care for your glasses, wash them individually by cupping them in your hand by the base of the bowl – never grip them by the stem. Rinse them first several times with hot water only – that should be sufficient to remove the wine if you haven’t let the glasses sit too long. Add a drop or two of detergent if you must and rinse the same way. Avoid sticking your hand in the bowl. To remove lipstick stains, use a damp paper towel with a little detergent and gently wipe. Air dry the glasses rather than hand drying them, preferably by setting them upside down on a rack that allows for complete air circulation. Once dry, store in their original boxes, if possible, or upright in a cupboard away from other glasses and dishes.

Q: Friends of ours from Saskatchewan are coming to visit in August and we plan to take them on a wine tour. They expect to purchase at least a case of wine. But since wine is no longer allowed on planes as carry-on, they want to know the best way of shipping home.
- Katherine

A: This is a tricky one. Legally, you are prohibited from shipping wine across provincial borders. That’s not to say people don’t do it. Actually, several wineries do it on the Q.T. Check out the order forms posted on the websites of some of the mid-to-larger sized wineries. They often include this wording: “Due to customs and duty regulations we cannot ship across international borders.” They don’t come right out and say they will ship across Canada, but the forms often contain a drop-down menu that includes the other provinces. Thus, if your friends plan to purchase wines from only one or two places, having the wineries do the shipping may be an option.

However, if they plan on collecting bottles from numerous vintners, they’ll have to arrange the shipping themselves and this is a gamble as courier services may refuse to do it and it’s pretty hard to disguise a box of wine.
Their best bet is to package the wine up as best they can to prevent breakage and have it loaded as cargo on their flights. Technically, you aren’t allowed to transport liquor across provincial lines either, but it isn’t well policed and I’ve done it numerous times without problems. One word of caution: fuel costs are compelling airlines to crack down and you may get dinged for extra baggage charges.